Once a regular item on the plates of the middle class,
hilsa (Ilish) has become increasingly inaccessible. It was not out of reach for
the lower class either. Due to Bangladesh’s geographical location, the country
is one of the world’s largest hilsa producers. Over the last decade, the
production of this fish has nearly doubled. However, contrary to economic
principles, the increase in production has not resulted in lower prices.
Instead, hilsa prices have surged, and it has disappeared from the tables of
the middle class, becoming a luxury only for the affluent.
Experts suggest that hilsa production growth has slowed
in recent years. Moreover, the fish has become a diplomatic tool in relations
with neighboring countries. Adding to this, the management of hilsa during its
breeding season is not coordinated with the neighboring country either. As a
result, the price of hilsa has skyrocketed in both countries, making it an
increasingly rare treat for the middle and lower classes.
According to data from the Department of Agricultural
Marketing (DAM) and the Trading Corporation of Bangladesh (TCB), in December
2022, the price of hilsa in local markets ranged from BDT 500 to BDT 1,200 per
kilogram, depending on size. By September 21 of last year, it had risen to
between BDT 600 and BDT 1,300. And in yesterday’s market (Saturday, September
21), the price ranged from BDT 800 to BDT 1,600 per kilogram, depending on
size. Traders, however, report even higher prices in some areas of Dhaka.
After assuming office, the interim government had
initially decided not to export hilsa to India. On August 11, just three days
after taking office, Farida Akhter, Adviser to the Ministry of Fisheries and
Livestock, told reporters at the Secretariat, “We won’t be sending any hilsa to
India. It’s an expensive fish. We’ve seen that even our people can’t afford to
eat hilsa because most of it is sent to India, and what’s left is sold at a
high price.”
The government has since reversed that decision. Ahead of
the upcoming Durga Puja, the government has approved the export of 3,000 tons
of hilsa to India. An order was issued by the Ministry of Commerce yesterday
(Saturday, September 21). The order, signed by Deputy Secretary Sultana Akhter,
stated that in response to applications from various exporters for the upcoming
Durga Puja, approval for the export of 3,000 tons of hilsa fish has been
granted. It is subject to the fulfillment of stipulated conditions.”
The order also mentioned that applicants must submit
their applications to the Ministry of Commerce by 12:00 pm on September 24. No
applications will be accepted after that date. Applicants who have already
applied do not need to reapply.
Adviser Farida Akhter spoke to Voice of America (VoA) on
the matter yesterday (September 21). She said that the amount to be exported
will depend on domestic supply. The supply of hilsa is low this year. She also
mentioned that fishing has decreased, and much of what is being caught is being
diverted through various channels. She said that the government will assess how
this impacts the local market.
According to the Department of Fisheries, Bangladesh
exported approximately 665 tons of hilsa to India in the fiscal year 2023-24.
In the previous fiscal year (2022-23), the amount was 1,376 tons. In 2021-22,
1,211 tons were exported; in 2020-21, the amount was 1,880 tons.
Market observers say that the price of hilsa always rises
in the domestic market before Durga Puja each year. At the same time, the
discussion around exporting hilsa to India resurfaces. While hilsa is used as a
diplomatic tool between the two countries, it rarely benefits the general
population. Instead, as the discussion intensifies, hilsa prices rise in the
market, and illegal fish smuggling increases. This year, reports have also
emerged of several consignments being seized at the border.
When asked about this, a diplomat who requested anonymity
said, “Hilsa holds appeal primarily for the Bengali population in India.
Therefore, using hilsa as a bargaining tool in diplomatic negotiations between
the two nations is not particularly significant. The adverse effects of such
use impact the Bangladeshi population more than anyone else. Prices of the fish
rises in the country’s market. This year is no exception.
According to the Kolkata Fish Importers Association
(FIA), 99 percent of fish imported from Bangladesh enters India through the
Petrapole border. Most of it is sold in Kolkata’s wholesale markets, particularly
the Howrah market. Some suppliers then distribute the fish to Bengali-populated
areas such as Hyderabad, Bengaluru, Delhi, and Mumbai.
FIA leaders said that almost 99 percent of the hilsa
imported from Bangladesh is sold in Kolkata. They pointed out that hilsa is of
little importance to the non-Bengali Indian population, as they do not share
the same appreciation for the fish. In fact, the amount of hilsa exported from
Bangladesh is usually less than the amount officially approved.
On September 9, the FIA sent a letter to Bangladesh’s
Foreign Adviser Touhid Hossain, urging consideration for approving hilsa
exports during Durga Puja. The letter included data on the quantity of hilsa
approved and actually exported from 2019 to 2023. According to the letter, the
last time the approved amount of hilsa was fully exported was in 2019 and 2020,
with 500 tons and 1,850 tons respectively. In September 2021, Bangladesh
approved 4,600 tons for export, but only 1,200 tons were sent. In the following
year of 2022, 2,900 tons were approved, but only 1,300 tons were exported. In
September 2023, the government approved 3,950 tons for export, but only 1,300
tons left the country.
Last night, Bonik Barta contacted FIA Secretary Syed
Anwar Maqsood via WhatsApp regarding hilsa exports from Bangladesh. He said,
“The hilsa season typically lasts three to four months. We have never been able
to bring more than 5,000 tons of hilsa from Bangladesh in any season. My
question is, how does Bangladesh’s market price increase when only 5,000 tons
are exported from the millions of tons produced in the season? Hilsa should not
be a diplomatic tool based on India’s demand, as it instead encourages the
illicit trade of the fish.”
He added, “A significant factor is that Bangladeshi people
can afford to buy products, including fish, at much higher prices than our side
of the Bengali population. In India, Bengali people buy hilsa cut into pieces.
In the retail markets here, a whole hilsa is never sold. Bangladeshis are
‘spending masters’. People in West Bengal are not spending masters.”
Hilsa production growth in Bangladesh has also slowed
down. Experts attribute this to river encroachment, pollution, reduced river
water flow, and unplanned infrastructure development. Hilsa typically migrates
to river estuaries to lay eggs. However, recent encroachments, pollution, and
the development of submerging areas and structures such as bridges and dams
have disrupted its habitat. As a result, the fish’s breeding is increasingly
under threat.
A study by the Bangladesh Fisheries Research Institute also highlights the decline in hilsa migration and the threats to its existence. The study particularly points to climate change, river infrastructure development, and the impact of pollution and encroachment. Global warming has raised temperatures. Sedimentation in rivers and reduced water transparency due to infrastructure development hinder hilsa migration from the sea to rivers. Rising water temperatures also threaten the fish’s breeding and feeding habits. Additionally, rising sea levels due to climate change has increased salinity, which is spreading into freshwater. Flooding in coastal areas and changes to breeding and nursery grounds are also contributing to the threats faced by hilsa.